Unlike many disposable products on the market today all of our products are designed for industrial duty use and are
non-landfill compatible.
We
still
get
a
kick
seeing
our
products
reliably
doing
their
job
for
10
years
or
more.
If
you
have
any
of
our
products
that
are
not
working,
we
would
much
rather
repair
it
than
sell
you
a
new
one.
It's
almost
always
cost
effective
to
do
so,
and
we
can
both
help
put
a
little
less
stress on the environment in the process. Thanks for your cooperation.
So
should
your
charger
or
accessory
need
service,
it
can
be
returned
to
us,
or
sometimes
trouble
shooting
and
repair
can
be
done
over
the
phone,
or
by
E-mail.
If
you
think
this
is
possible,
you
may
call
or
E-mail
us.
Please
have
your
model
number,
and
date
code
from
the
charger
ready.
If
the
charger
is
under
warranty,
we
may
choose
to
send
parts
to
be
installed
by
a
qualified
technician.
There
will
be
no
charge
for
the
parts.
Quick
Charge
Corp.
is
not
responsible
for
labor
charges.
If
your
charger
fails
within
30
days
of
purchase,
and
it
is
a
failure
due
to
parts
or
workmanship,
we
will
pick
the
charger
up
via
UPS
at
our
cost,
make
the
necessary
repairs,
and
return
it
at
our
cost.
If
field
servicing
is
not
possible,
the
item
may
be
returned
to
us.
Please
print
and
fill
out
this
RMA
Form.
Pack
the
item,
with
the
form
carefully
in
a
box
suitable,
and
strong
enough
to
avoid
damage.
Quick
Charge
is
not
responsible
for
damage
caused
by
insufficient
packing.
Send
the
package
freight
prepaid
by
the
carrier
of
your
choice.
Once
received,
we
will
get
the
item
repaired
ASAP,
usually
within
a
couple
of
days
to
1
week.
If
the
item
is
under
warranty,
we
will
pay
for
the
cost
of
repair,
and
the
return
freight.
If
the
item
is
out
of
warranty,
we
will
contact
you
with
repair
charges,
you
will
also
be
responsible
for
return
freight
cost.
A
credit
card
will
be
needed
for
those
customers not having an open account with Quick Charge.
Call us at
800 658-2841, 405 634-2120
Monday - Friday, and try us on Saturdays, we are in and out.
E-mail us at
info@quickcharge.com Most of the time we will get back to you within a few hours, weekends included.
FAQ
How do I size a charger to my batteries?
With
lead
acid
batteries
you
usually
use
the
10%
rule.
That
is,
the
charger
rating
should
be
about
10%
of
the
amp
hour
capacity
@
the
20
hour
rate,
so
if
your
batteries
are
rated
at
250
amp
hour
you
would
select
a
25
amp
charger.
This
is
not
a
hard
and
fast
rule,
and
you
can stray from it with the understanding that the farther you stray, the less life and or performance you will receive from your batteries.
See “How long will it take to charge my battery” below
My On Board charger get's so hot I can't keep my hand on it, is this normal?
Yes, the On Boards are not ventilated so all the heat generated is dissipated through out the aluminum housings that are a heatsink. A
temperature of 160-180F is not uncommon.
I put a volt meter across the charger output leads and nothing comes out, Is something wrong?
No.
All
of
our
chargers
require
some
battery
voltage
across
the
leads
to
turn
on,
so
if
your
battery
is
stone
dead,
the
charger
will
not
come
on.
If
yours
is
an
On
Board
with
a
single
green
LED
then
approximately
half
the
chargers
rated
voltage
will
be
required
to
turn
it
on.
All
other
models
with
a
tri-color
LED
will
turn
on
at
a
much
lower
lower
voltage.
If
your
batteries
are
in
a
series
string,
get
some
voltage
into
the batteries by putting a little charge in them individually. You don't need to disconnect all the batteries and you don’t need much.
How long will it take to charge my battery(s)?
The answer varies widely. Factors include:
Size
of
charger
to
battery,
temperature,
age
of
battery,
depth
of
discharge,
and
chemistry.
A
deep
cycle
battery
will
take
longer
than
a
starting
battery.
If
you
use
the
10%
rule
as
described
above,
and
figure
the
battery
is
completely
dead,
count
on
8-10
hours,
with
the
time
increasing
with
the
increase
in
battery
size.
In
other
words,
a
10
amp
charger
on
a
100-120
amp
hour
battery
will
take
the
8-10
hours,
but
if
you
put
a
60
amp
charger
on
a
600
amp
forklift
battery,
it
will
take
around
16
-
18
hours,
so
it's
okay
to
bend
the
10%
rule
in
favor
of
a
larger charger as battery size increases.
For
lead
acids,
slower
charging
allows
the
battery
to
store
more
energy,
and
give
more
back.
However,
some
manufactures
specify
a
charge
rate
much
higher
than
10%.
This
can
be
problematic
for
pack
voltages
in
the
36,
48,
and
higher
ranges
because
the
required
charger
becomes
large, expensive, and the power to operate it is often not available.
How often should I charge my deep cycle batteries?
This
is
another
answer
with
widely
variable
factors
and
opinions.
On
a
deep
cycle
set,
the
deeper
you
discharge,
the
fewer
the
cycles.
A
deep
discharge
would
be
considered
around
1.95
open
circuit
volts
per
cell
in
our
opinion.
Some
consider
discharging
more
than
50%
to
be
excessive.
Shallow
discharges
result
in
more
cycles,
but
can
reduce
capacity
due
to
sulfation.
The
user
must
weigh
the
cost
of
deeper
discharges,
and
more
frequent
battery
replacement
against
longer
life
and
limited
usefulness,
whether
that's
the
range
of
their
electric
vehicle, or run time on their floor scrubber.
Firm statements we feel comfortable making are:
Always recharge if your batteries are discharged more than 20%. A volt meter, or fuel gauge will be needed to measure this.
Do not leave your batteries in a deep discharged state. This is probably the number one cause of premature battery failure. We provide a
battery
LVI
alarm to prevent this
Recharge as soon as you can, but not if the batteries are warm, allow a cool down time.
If you're not going to use your batteries for extended periods, leave the charger plugged in and let it float/maintain. Lead acids self
discharge, and in some cases you can return to find your equipment disabled, and your batteries ruined if the charger is not left on.
Do I need temperature compensation on my charger?
First,
what
is
it?
The
voltage
that
batteries
should
be
charged
to
depends
on
the
ambient
temperature
the
batteries
are
exposed
to.
Colder
temperatures
require
a
higher
charge
to
voltage,
while
hotter
temps
require
it
to
be
lower.
Too
high
a
voltage
at
high
temps
will
result
in
over
charging/water
usage.
Too
low
a
voltage
in
cold
temps
may
result
in
undercharging,
so
it
depends
on
your
application.
Two
examples
would
be,
If
you're
charging
batteries
in
a
warehouse
for
your
pallet
jack,
then
no.
If
you're
float
charging
batteries
for
a
standby
generator
which
is
exposed
to
wide
temperature
swings,
then
yes.
This
feature
is
standard
on
our
strictly
float
type
chargers
(OBE)
we
offer
it
as
an
option on everything else.
Do your chargers have a desulfation circuit, or do I need to use a desulfator device in conjuction with my charger?
When
you
charge
a
battery
you
desulfate
it.
Hard
sulfation
occurs
when
a
battery
sits
around
discharged,
or
is
constantly
undercharged.
Desulfator
products
claim
to
remove
this
type
of
sulfation.
If
you
charge
your
battery
soon
after
discharge,
hard
sulfation
can
be
averted,
and
therefore
additional
products
are
not
needed
for
use
with
your
Quick
Charge
charger.
Above
all,
do
not
allow
your
batteries
to
go
stone dead. Our
LVI
alarm is great for this.
Is Quick Charge a smart charger?
There
are
many
terms
used
today
to
describe
one
brands
technological
superiority
over
another.
When
absorbing
this
information,
remember
the
rechargeable
lead
acid
battery
was
invented
over
150
years
ago,
and
they
haven't
changed
very
much
since
that
time,
neither
has
the
need
for
new
charging
methods.
Charging
a
battery
is
a
simple
matter
of
manipulating
time,
voltage,
and
sometimes
current.
We
use
a
basic
three
stage
profile
that
continues
to
work
very
well
in
optimizing
your
batteries
life.
There
is
simply
no
need
for
extreme
technology
here,
and
any
brand
that
claims
to
extend
battery
life
by
leaps
and
bounds,
or
fully
charge
a
battery
in
half
the
time
of
a
comparably
sized
charger
should
be
viewed
with
suspicion.
In
addition,
there
are
so
many
variables
a
battery
is
exposed
to,
it's
very
difficult
to
measure
battery
life
outside
of
lab
testing,
that's
why
battery
manufactures
generally
rate
the
life
at
3-5
years,
and
that
is
what
you should expect.
How do I know what charge profile to set my charger to?
As
stated,
we
use
a
basic
three
stage
charge
profile
for
deep
cycle
wet
cells
and
AGM
lead
acid
batteries.
However,
we
provide
adjustments
to
the
last
20%
of
the
charge
cycle
referred
to
as
the
absorption,
or
gassing
cycle.
We
do
this
because
pure
logic
circuits
cannot
fully
compensate
for
the
variables
such
as
charger
to
battery
size,
age,
brands,
and
the
way
the
battery
is
being
used.
For
instance, this part of the cycle needs to be lengthened for some battery brands. They include:
US Battery
Full River
Odyssey
Northstar
Not lengthening the cycle for these batteries will result in undercharging, and underachieving maximum battery life. See your manual for
how to lengthen the cycle.
Small chargers on big batteries can also benefit from a longer cycle.
Sometimes
this
part
of
the
cycle
should
be
shortened.
For
example,
deep
cycles
that
are
used
for
standby
power
or
are
shallow
discharged,
say
to
around
20%
don't
need
the
same
gassing/absorption
time
as
ones
that
are
fully
cycled.
This
setting
can
save
energy,
and
excessive
water
use
for
wet
cells.
It
can
also
be
useful
on
batteries
that
are
old
and
have
reduced
capacity.
Excessive
water
usage,
case heating and warping are indications of aged batteries.
Large chargers on small batteries may also need a shorter cycle.
In addition to the three stage profiles, we also provide a single stage constant voltage profile for gel batteries having critical voltage
limits, or starting batteries that can charged with a constant voltage.
Will using the wrong profile setting harm my batteries?
It
can
if
you
use
a
higher
setting
that
exceeds
the
battery
manufactures
maximum
voltage
limits.
For
example,
using
the
wet
cell
profile
on
AGM
batteries
can
harm
them.
Using
anything
but
the
constant
voltage
setting
on
gel
batteries
will
overcharge
and
damage
them.
Therefore:
ALWAYS CHECK THE CHARGER PROFILE SETTING BEFORE USING.
I'm switching to a lithium ion pack. Will my charger work?
For Lithium Iron Phosphate 3.2 volt LiFePO4 cells, we need to establish how many cells you need to match the charger.
IF 12 volt charger, use 4 lithium cells
24 volt = 8 cells
32 volt = 11 cells
36 volt = 12 cells
48 volt = 16 cells
64 volt = 22 cells
72 volt = 24 cells
96 volt = 33 cells
120 volt = 40 cells
144 volt = 49 cells
Using fewer cells will make the charger run hotter, and shorten it's life. Using more cells will cause weak output and extend the charge
cycle or the charger will fail to fully charge the cells.
These cells, and most commercially assembled packs are charged to 3.65 volts. In this case the voltages are about the same as
charging an AGM lead acid battery, so using that profile, you will be able to charge your lithium pack, but check the instructions that
came with your charger, there may be a lithium setting shown.
If you require a charger to operate from a different number of cells, or with a different nominal voltage a different charger may be needed.
Please contact us with your specific need.
Do I need a BMS (battery management system) for my pack?
Yes, most pre assembled packs come with the BMS installed.
High frequency switch mode power supply chargers. What's the difference with traditional transformer based chargers?
Quick
Charge
manufactures
transformer
based
chargers.
High
frequency
chargers
are
designed
using
complex
electronics.
HF
chargers
are
lighter
in
weight,
and
generally
smaller.
They
are
basically
unrepairable
and
should
be
viewed
as
a
disposable
appliance.
They
also
have
a
shorter
life
span
averaging
1-3
years.
A
transformer
based
charger
can
last
10
years
or
more,
and
can
usually
be
repaired
feasibly. However, they are heavy. Neither has an advantage in charging a battery better than the other.
The application often dictates the choice of one over the other.
GLOSSARY OF TERMS THAT WE USE.
Charge Profile: A setting the determines how the charger charges the batteries. This term is only relevant to the last 20% of the cycle.
Bulk Cycle: Up to 80% of the cycle where max power is put into the battery. Program settings have no affect on this cycle. It is controlled
by the internal resistance of the battery. As the voltage builds the amperage will naturally taper.
Gassing cycle: The last 20% of the charge cycle where a wet cell battery bubbles vigorously to stir the electrolyte, preset max voltage is met,
and amperage is allowed to fall to the lowest point possible.
Absorption Cycle: The last 20% of the charge cycle on an AGM battery where preset max voltage is met, and amperage is allowed to fall to
the lowest point possible.
Float Mode: When the last 20% of the charge cycle is complete, the charger drops into this mode to hold the batteries in a full charge condition.
The voltage is held between 2.22 to 2.27 volts per cell. Amperage to maintain this voltage can be between 10 or 20 milliamps all the way up to
1 amp or more depending on battery size and age.
Maintenance Mode: If the charger is set to shut off completely, the battery will continue to be monitored, and the charger will turn itself back on
based on time, or a minimum voltage so the batteries will not self discharge to a dangerous level.
Safe Mode: When a charger is connected to a severely discharged battery, output amperage is limited to about 10% of the charger output rating to
prevent excessive current flow. Once a safe voltage level is met the charger will automatically enter the normal bulk mode and continue charging.
Constant voltage: A single stage setting where a preset voltage is met and held indefinitely.
Current Limit: A setting that does not allow amperage output to exceed the rating of the charger.
Lead Acid Battery: All batteries that require water, starting batteries, deep cycle batteries, AGM batteries, and GEL batteries.
They are all lead acid batteries.
AND THE WAY IT IS…….
Don’t like to read? We understand, just call us! 405 634-2120
We’ll Make it Black and White.
NOTE: These may conflict with, and not be mentioned in your instruction manual. With the addition of features, and to incorporate settings
for lithium ion batteries, some terminology we have used in the past is being changed to mean something different. Please bear with us
while we update our manuals, labeling and other documentation, and in the meantime please call us to clear up any questions you may have.